(essays with a view of the entity) 

Packing luggage before flying to Moscow, I had no idea that I forget about it, throwing a bag at the hotel and spend evenings in the rainy streets of the capital. And doing morning exercises in your room, the window is visible spikes Kremlin had not even thought that I would be powerless to forget all that he had heard, and everyone saw in the big city. 

Muscovites and visitors 

In Moscow, I got the first time. A few years ago was already familiar with the easy to talk Dresden, the city of Berlin, the mood, with Paris knows his own worth. Each of them "took" something his: architecture, service, prices ... 

Moscow - is first and foremost, the Muscovites. Forgive me, aboriginals, but the impression of them after my first and comparatively short - a length of just one week - a meeting with Moscow remained the more ... Most of them set up as something really quite unfriendly to visitors, who constitute a large proportion of the population of Moscow. If you got here, ask them a question, then smiles, not likely to see. Like the gentle tone with a kind word. You can answer, but most likely just "otoshyut," he said with a straight face something like "I do not know." If you come into contact with someone from the people, and was followed by such a reaction, then maybe you are lucky enough to meet it Muscovites. Although, of course, over time, almost every visitor becomes like a man who was born here. With some indifference and even met with bitterness in a hotel on the street, in shops, in the subway, catching myself thinking that the Kazakh hospitality characteristic of native Pavlodar, I was in Moscow lacks the most. However, oddly enough, often contemptuous of city visitors and to each other basically different people who settled in the Russian capital is relatively recent, and not those who was born there. 

- The phrase "Validating here!" Belongs to the non-indigenous Muscovites - local so do not tell - told the ambulance surgeon Moscow, Galina, who lives here for the second year. Six-plus years she lived in Smolensk. Prior to that lived in Semey, and even earlier - in Shymkent, where born. - Left to live in Moscow, the most difficult to get used to this attitude of people towards each other and to you. After all, this is manifested both at work and at home. 

in a Moscow dining worked as a cook, two women who live in the capital long ago, but were born in different parts of the former Soviet Union. One came from Orenburg, and the other - from Baku. Living in Moscow is not easy all: and indigenous, and they came. But the second anyway - is more complicated. It is clear that my companion had to go through different during his "life in Moscow." They say that money in loans to visitors indigenous people do not give. 

Once I called the hotel elevator on the ninth floor. He went into the cabin: two women went down, which I, as it turned out, just stopped on the road. I had to climb to your room, all on two floors. 

- Let's we're with you on the eleventh floor will rise, and then ... - I asked, reaching his finger to the button. 

- I'll now go up on the eleventh! We here at the airport going, and he was going up! Oh, you like! - Incurred on my aunt good mate. Her companion tried to smile, and said that the elevator de still goes to the first floor, where he was sent earlier. I hope very much that affected my insolence ladies had in the airport ... 

And talk is not with anyone ... 

And still find a bookstore or grocery store, change seats on the right metro line, and generally navigate the city helped me Muscovites. Indigenous and beyond. From hunting, and without, with a smile and through gritted teeth. True, often there is a feeling of loneliness when I was wandering around Moscow, because the talk was almost no one: most people walking around with headphones from the player or cell phone in their ears, and in the subway people are reading books, newspapers, magazines, dig in the business papers ... Sometimes it seemed that they deliberately safeguarded from you and from all other music, reading, or even a glance. 

Perhaps only the elderly Muscovites: grandparents - are not affected. In Moscow, they seem to be a critical lack of communication. Ask a question the person they are willing to tell where how to get where to buy, and so on. I fell once on the street Malaya Pirogovskaya where to look for house number five. And, apparently, on my face it was written that I wanted to ask for directions, because it was walking towards me an elderly man alive person, quickened his pace and not letting me open his mouth, the first to say: "I hear you ... 

evening, met old ladies walked with the dogs. When I asked one of them permission to photograph it with a lap dog in her arms, she did not simply agree, and all asked to make a couple more shots, then another and another ... The old lady did not ask to send her a picture and did not ask why I do take them off. Just made her want to help me, I wanted to talk. 

Babylon and guest workers 

Moscow, as the city of Babylon, has collected millions of people at one point, while if not specifically allowing them to be together, putting some caps and barriers of misunderstanding. From the CIS, South Asia, Southeast Asia, Africa, America and Europe come here to study and work. And some, working in Moscow, their careers, while others simply to feed their families, send money home, staying for Muscovites migrant workers, almost homeless, and for their relatives Moscow earnings becomes tangible material support. The main share of their income workers from Tajikistan, Uzbekistan sent home. After working a couple of years, returning to their homes, where their family is exiled from Moscow for savings provider has already bought the car, another apartment and can even build a house. And that - despite the fact that visitors pay for their work on the order of magnitude smaller than Muscovites. 

news agency Interfax published data of the Department of Labor and Employment Government of the capital: from the beginning of 2009, arrived in Moscow to 190,000 officially registered foreigners - 17 percent more than during the first three months of 2008. Foreigners traveling to Moscow to work as a labor market does not suit them. 

During my stay, radio Ekho Moskvy discussed the initiative of Mayor Yuri Luzhkov that to work instead of Tajiks and Uzbeks, to invite young people from the Russian regions. Journalists still laughed, saying, of course, some Muscovites themselves Aby on what kind of work do not agree. Has already been decided that the Moscow authorities to hold the regions extensive advertising campaign - something like job fairs. A vacancy in the bank of the Moscow Employment Service today - more than 200,000 job vacancies. Need drivers, welders, foremen, policemen, nurses, electricians, plumbers, tilers, plasterers, cooks, porters, bricklayers, storekeepers, and similar professionals. And among the Muscovites, said Ekho Moskvy, the profession is still in demand do not enjoy, even despite the crisis. 

With all the advantages of this idea the mayor: fill the gap specialists, unemployment assistance from the Russian heartland - have found many people who seriously doubted that place migrant workers will rush to take the Russians out of town. After all, first and foremost a problem for any visitor - accommodation. If the mere thought of his search for any provincial no desire to go "conquer the capital, the government is not saying a word, for example, about the dorms or some other housing options for young workers. 

Stops announces Kirillov 

most convenient, fastest form of public transport and the biggest "Babylon" - the Moscow subway. If you believe the advertising signs, under the Russian capital for days scurrying 356 compositions, and this is - 4143 cars. Here too, all in a hurry. In different directions. If in Pavlodar, a friend of mine constantly reminds everyone that you can not walk on the escalator, then in the Moscow metro people in general is always at the right edge as the left always someone running. Race than those who commute to their destination only to Subway: these people do not be late, because the new staff arrives every five minutes. They ride the escalator to those who will transfer from subway to bus and ground transportation in Moscow because of the congestion goes bad. I am from the airport to the metro station "River Station" (final) went more than three hours. The metro is, of course, no traffic jams. 

There are here and those who are in no hurry. In the evening, can be found sleeping on a bench in the train drunkard, and only musicians, beggars, beggars of all kinds here - no problem. Suspicious subjects, usually immediately comes policeman. 

automated work station, and here I learned the true meaning of the phrase "Warning! Closing doors ": doors subway will be closed automatically and simultaneously. Some grandfather went into a crowded car, and he ached door sleeve jacket. And rode to the next stop until the door is not opened. 

By the way, if the announcement of stops on the subway is the voice of a young man, then a bus to notify them well-known Soviet, Russian television broadcaster, Igor L. Kirillov. 

At peak hours, as I wrote you in the subway often brings a crowd. My colleague from Nizhny Novgorod rode the train, standing at the door. The guy who was nearby, asked me: 'Come out? ". I say: "No". "Exit" - he replied, and we just carried on the hands, and then again had to enter the car and us, and this guy. He too was not going to go at this station. 

Someone from Kazakhstan told me that in the Moscow metro youth does not concede a place for older people. Not true. Inferior. Saw it myself. True, most young people do not sit at all. And keep reading. 

In short, the Moscow subway - a separate world. He was loud, it can be tired, may ache head, but with it you can easily get from one end of Moscow to another, even with lots of transplants, paying only once, and in general it's warm, despite the constant drafts. 

Sights and emphasis 

Moscow Attractions are brought before you is always surprising and somehow casually. During the tour on the Seine in Paris, if so it should be left floated the famous Notre Dame Cathedral. So here, coming from behind a corner, we were right at the monument commander Georgy Zhukov, the left of which is designated in the cobblestone bronze "penny" zero kilometer road of the Russian Federation. Around him - Bronze same range, indicating the horizon. According to tradition, it is necessary to take this zero-mile face of the place from which came to make a wish and throw a coin to wish fulfilled. Naturally, there are lying and the ruble, and a penny, and the tenge and cents, and the euro, and tugriks. Currency, not straightening the back, goes and picks up an old woman. 

passed through the arch of the Armory. Just as the statue of the marshal, in front of us appeared St. Basil's Cathedral, the Kremlin has turned out to be right and Mausoleum VI Lenin, while the left remained GUM, all in lights. That is what all this had not been possible to see except in pictures and on TV, or from the aura of Red Square, where we suddenly found themselves, did not pass the feeling that everything is suddenly surrounded us do not truly but simply to draw or shown on the big screen. 

remember the peace, independence and warm atmosphere of the Novodevichy Convent. It was built in the sixteenth-seventeenth centuries in central Moscow. Today, the monastery is listed World Heritage Convention concerning the Protection of World Cultural and Natural Heritage, and protected by the state. 

*** 

Many told me about a Moscow accent, and I kept trying to hear it somewhere. But something like that I caught only in the hotel: a guard, just holding the letter "a" talking to someone from the staff. 

A staff of the hotel, where I lived at all - a separate issue. When I first registered, the administrator, holding out my card of the guest, asked: "Where are you from?". I said that I came from Pavlodar. "This is where?" - Followed by a puzzled question. 

on the eleventh floor, where is my room, I immediately asked the employee, and if she knows where the city of Pavlodar. 

- Yes, we know of Pavlodar. Heard. 

- This is - in Kazakhstan. 

- Yes? .. 

prices. Of course, in Moscow, all at times more expensive than ours. I will only say one thing. I stayed in the capital of the seminar week, and the food we provided the organizers do, but on the last day, we with the colleague from Bishkek went into a cafe for lunch. Double booked for single servings soups and borscht, two Greek salad, a lemon tea and took a half-liter bottle of water. Paid about 950 rubles, although already in 1100 can be one of us to fly from Moscow to St. Petersburg. 

*** 

reader may feel as if I was unhappy with Moscow, and was expecting something more. On the contrary, I first had the idea that Moscow was insanely good, friendly and interesting, so Muscovites themselves, it simply does not deserve it. But then I realized that people here are so different in character, views on life, attitude to visitors, and, of course, the ethnic composition of the faith, that characterize him as something more than difficult. Yes, and then in Moscow, according to the first of January this year, live ten and a half million people. In Almaty, Astana and Karaganda, combined, two million 615 thousand, in Belarus - nine million 700 thousand. Not for nothing the whole of Russia jokes that Moscow - a separate state and Russia at all. Because there is no way that people around the state met each other with an open mind, especially foreigners. Perhaps, with us, visiting, in another way and it is impossible. Tourists, visitors are all interesting, all you need to know to ask. Travelers simply do not understand much in the life of this city. And I'm probably a week you still just do not understand, my dear Muscovites. 

Alexander VERVEKIN.