Log in" Treasury of the Pharaohs "

"The characteristics of a pilgrimage to the Land belonged to the East, among other things, that while the Brotherhood, taking a journey, meant absolutely certain, very lofty goals, ... However, each individual participant was allowed and even obliged to have another and their, private purposes ... "
Herman. "Pilgrimage in the East."

In the West, especially among the young, popular voluntary travel civilized places. Backpack, sleeping bag needed a visa - and before you open the whole world. Vehicles - all available modes of transport. And this is usually not hitchhiking: pay the ticket for bus service is not much beating can afford, but dramatically increases speed and reduces the number of problems (persuasion drivers showdown with supervisors, etc.). Overnight in campsites, hostels or cheap hotels also do not require very expensive, but saves time and effort required to search for "night and day." This preserves the spirit of free travel: the freedom to choose the route, autonomy, initiative, direct contact with local people, look at the country from within, the spirit of romance and adventure.

It is this kind of travel, my wife Irina opted for a trip to the Middle East in February 2004, route selection depends on several factors. We wanted to briefly escape from a frosty Moscow in summer. And the prices for charter flights to Egypt in the winter drops sharply and the 8-day tour in Sharm El-Sheikh, staying at a hotel (where you can enjoy breakfast and relax after the flight and before returning to Moscow) cost us a 0 for each (a few days before Departure asked for the same tour is 5). In addition, we expire passports and wanted to first get an Israeli visa (closing in the future for travel, many Arab countries), and then issue new passports. We planned to visit the Dead Sea - the lowest point of the planet's surface (400 m below sea level), in Jerusalem - the holy site of three world religions, in a mysterious town Pe'tra - one of the most interesting places in the Middle East.
February 14 we flew from Moscow to Sharm El-Sheikh. Received a visa directly at the Egyptian airport for. From Egypt (where we already are) immediately went to Jordan: the bus reached the city of Nuweiba and bought tickets for the ferry to Aqaba. At the entrance to the Jordanian border guard ship surprised to see our passports. We explained that we live in Russia, but we do not have a visa, because we want to get it upon arrival in Aqaba. The ferry has completed and passed the Declaration of passports that we came back at the border, putting a free two-week visa, which allows this to be in the free economic zone. That is what I expected (though the Jordanian Embassy in Moscow claimed that the visa fee, and even the Consul said that the free visa is issued only organized tour groups). Evening bus to the village of Wadi Musa, near which is the famous Peter's, no time to waste not want, and we, along with the American pair took a taxi (30 dinars per car, approximately). The driver recommended us a very decent cheap hotel "Valentine."

hotels provide free transportation to the entrance to Petra, though it is close and within walking distance. Entrance tickets cost 11 dinars (9 students), ie about. In Peter we entered the first morning and walked all day in this dead city, surrounded by rugged cliffs. Leads to it is long (more than 1 km) and narrow (2 m wide) gap in the rocks, the so-called Sick. Steep 100-meter high cliffs on its sides are impressive. So imagine a sense of the traveler, make their way through this passage to the capital of the kingdom Nabatiyskogo in I. BC (This time that the first mention of nabatiytsah, the Bible mentions Peter as the capital of the kingdom Edomitov).
For unknown reasons, the city was abandoned and, after many centuries, the Swiss discovered by Ludwig Burghart. He was posing as a Bedouin, wandering in these places in 1812, and local residents have opened him the secret of the dead city, buried in the rocks. Having Sik, Ludwig came across a beautiful pink temple - named after "treasury of the Pharaohs" - and then arriving to Cairo, spoke of his discovery. In the twentieth century, the town became a popular tourist object. Here the film "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade."

city itself - are the numerous caves carved into the rocks. There are so many and they are so closely situated that resemble modern high-rise windows, only, unlike conventional houses, there rise from floor to floor runs along the outside stairs. In the caves there are stone lodge, a little extra room, the remains of hearths. Red Rocks with tortuous veins form a beautiful unique designs for interior and exterior walls of dwellings. Barely visible trail climb the rocky steep slopes of ravines shelves. Here is a temple with carved in stone carvings strongly the ravages of time some soldiers. Here's a giant lion carved on a huge slab, figure, especially the head, too, suffered greatly. From the old stone houses long ago taken away, leaving only colorful smooth floors and walls, but they look like the richly decorated rooms.
we get out on a high mountain pass. It obelisk-like monuments to the sun god Ra at Luxor. The whole architecture of the city, located at the crossroads of civilizations - a cocktail of mixed cultures. Near the pass - the top with a platform for sacrifices. Somewhere there Bedouin with a baby in her arms and invites Irene to buy it. Cute kid, just do not understand why he was pulled so high, and who will buy it here ... Descend to the classical Greek theater at 8,000 spectators. Carved in stone semicircular rows of seats running down to the small stage. The biggest and most beautiful temple, called The Monastery, located at the other end of town, and only the final climb up the steep rocky path will take at least 40 minutes.
From Petra to Aqaba at 16.00 was to go to a small public bus, but for some reason he had left half an hour earlier and we had to go back to the car. In Aqaba we were staying in a cheap hotel Arabic "Red Sea", reminiscent of our hostel. Double room cost per night for 6 dinars (1 dinar for giving, 45). In the toilet instead of toilet - a hole in the floor, instead of toilet paper proposed use by Arab tradition, the pitcher with water. The ratio of the local was the most friendly, and it is absolutely sincere. Jordan is much richer than Egypt, the people live better at home with satellite dishes on the streets do not see beggars. Ordinary Jordanians are behaving with dignity, while the girls hold more freely. But East is East. And here you should definitely try to sell something at an inflated price, or "heat" on the currency exchange rate, but in Jordan, you do not ask the price, an order of magnitude greater than the real, as is often the case in Egypt.
morning we caught the car and for 3 dinar reached the checkpoint Arov (no buses, and walking is impossible to go). Israeli visas in Moscow, we got through the company "Sun Travel", for it had to pay for two nights in a hotel in Jerusalem, but after obtaining a visa from the hotel, we declined, the money returned to us, we lost on that (the visa cost).
employees of the company "Sun Travel" Israelis are interested in our Arica is not a typical route, and he gave many valuable suggestions. For example, recommended the return from Petra to Aqaba and cross the border here, and not to the north, via the King Hussein bridge, as in this case have to go to Jerusalem by the troubled Jericho. Advised to take a rental car in Eilat, claiming that the whole road up to Jerusalem to be safe, but the only problem area, known as Zone "C" (not marked on the map of the Palestinian territories under the control of Israeli troops) during the day and be safe. This information is correct and valid, although the Israeli forum on the internet local were not so optimistic. There were even opinions that if you come by car with Israeli rooms in Ramallah (a road in the zone "C" is not far from the city) and you just killed, then consider yourself lucky. As I explained at the forum, I just do not have time to get his Russian passport. And while the Internet often suffers from too categorical judgments, my heart was a little anxious.

... the Arab side of the border went very quickly, to pay 5 dinars exit tax. The border guard looked examined our passports. Then it comes up: "Rush! .. Chechnya, Afghanistan! "It's nice that someone knows about your country, sorry, that information is kind of lopsided. And now we are keeping up on the asphalt path laid through a minefield (all Israel's borders are mined) to an Israeli post. Here we were greeted by pretty girls in military uniform. Back in Moscow, I learned that having a visa does not guarantee passage of Israeli border, can wrap up, even without explaining the reasons. Yes, so carefully we have never tested: ask not just a passport, and driver's license (my rejected immediately, but over the newcomers Irinin divergent views). Backpacks enlightened alternately in three projections, and then ransacked and learn all things. Tea from a thermos sent for analysis, have long studied the umbrella ... Making sure that we are not Jews, relatives and friends in Israel have no purpose of the trip - Jerusalem, the girls went to check the "legends" of our trip. We have clearly told about our itinerary and prices for travel, all came together, and we missed the next window. Here we fill in a customs declaration. A girl asked how much money we have. The exact amount I had no idea and called around. In the next post (probably custom) I read that correctly called for the amount of imported money is assumed to 6 months in prison. Subsequently, one of my money is not counted, and problems with it have arisen.
exchange currency in the last window, sighed with relief. We were the only people trying to enter here at this time in Israel, though the passage of the border took about 2 hours. The girl in exchange well said in Russian, is welcome to meet people from Russia and issued a "secret" information: a 10-minute walk to the highway bus stop in Jerusalem. Another English-speaking girl, then tried to slip us a taxi, saying that no bus no. Stop found easily, but her schedule was not. Rescued by an Israeli soldier with a long gun behind his back. (Incidentally, the local soldiers I liked: friendly, relaxed, smiling and happy life.) He said that we need a bus N 444, and showed that as he approached to get up and go to the highway, even called on his cell at the station and found time of departure.
Located near resort town of Eilat - the safest place in Israel, although there are excesses. I asked the soldiers about the battles in the forests near Eilat, about which a couple of weeks ago, flashed through the Internet, he confirmed that they were Palestinian guerrillas, and waved his hand in date palm groves at the Jordanian border. The bus arrived at 10.05. The ticket is bought from the driver and is 68 shekels (over in Jerusalem gave 4.4 NIS). At the bus station of Jerusalem all of us again thoroughly searched. Generally, the constant checking of things - an integral part of life in Israel. Checking everywhere: at the entrance to the museums, supermarkets, bus stations ... The people are very concerned about security issues. After a cheerful Jordan is somehow cold, and it is not only an unusually low temperature for these places. On the faces of ordinary passenger bus, on which we get from the bus station to the Old City, an imprint of some anguish, uncertainty and even fear. However, it can be understood: in two days here again blew up the bus. Most confident and resilient people - soldiers, have fun chatting on the streets of young women and men with guns behind their backs. Russian language is not so much, but they were willing to help navigate the maze of the Eternal City.
reaching to the Jaffa Gate, we stopped in a cheap hostel Arabic Peter (NIS 100 per room). Rushed: for the same money could be accommodated in a more decent next "Jaffa Gate". Navigate in the old town is difficult. Card is bad, the compass is not taken, the sky is not visible because of numerous arches and ceilings. Dramatically dark, closed shops and the town was deserted. On the winding streets were only flocks of Palestinian youth and rare visitors. Here are a couple from Slovenia. Arab loudly insults the guy is clearly provoking a fight. Slovenian swallows insults, without succumbing to the provocations. Come to him. Arab, seeing the approaching reinforcements behind. "It is not safe for walking at night," - said the Slovenian and shows us the right direction. Even in the stone labyrinths Stone Town, Zanzibar, perhaps, we were calm, although the undesirability of an evening stroll was written on the doors of hotels, but there are no warnings we have not met. However, whether they should have in East Jerusalem in the midst of the Palestinian intifada?
Pretty cool, in a hotel lobby stoked wood stove, "stove". The guests pulled the fire frozen hands. But we were warm in our sleeping bags mountain ...
morning, walking down Via Deloroza on which Christ went to Calvary. Street crowded with merchants, goods are hung directly on the plaques that mark the path of Jesus. Pilgrims almost none. Irina was well prepared, she took a handkerchief and a long skirt. We were fit young Christian woman, a Belgian. "You are the Pilgrims?" I answered in the affirmative. "Let me show you the path of Christ on Calvary." The girl came to Holy Places, and a little afraid. In the temple of the Holy Sepulcher pustovato. Exit, crossing himself vigorously, two pilgrims, and we remain virtually alone. Only on the second floor sleeps a Greek monk. Piece of wall densely-packed autograph tourists. On the glass that protects the stones stained with the blood of Christ, says something like lipstick: "Jesus, we remember you."

At some gate we were again stopped by soldiers, not letting the Temple Mount. However, this warning still in Moscow. Another twist - and a new checkpoint. The soldier asks: "A Muslim?". I see the pointer "to the Wailing Wall" and I do not know what to say. The soldier, thinking that we do not understand in English, pokes into the picture of the Mosque of Omar. "Yes, yes, we are just here" - entered into the conversation, Irina, and we passed the Temple Mount.
This mountain - the biggest problem in the relations between Jews and Muslims. Here was a temple of Solomon, destroyed by the Romans, is a holy place for Jews. From the temple there was only a support wall, the so-called Wailing Wall, which has gathered the Jews, crying on the ruins of the temple, hoping to restore it. On its ruins, the sacred rock (which is sacred to the Jews: this is where Abraham offered to God to sacrifice his son Isaac), ascended to heaven the prophet Mohammed, and around the site of the Ascension was built Mosque of Omar, the third largest (after Mecca and Medina ) Muslim shrine. That is to restore the temple of Solomon to demolish the mosque, which is totally unacceptable to Muslims. After seeing the mosque from the outside, we decided to go inside. A group of Arab women came to the door, took off his shoes and walked on tiptoe. I went after him, but was stopped by a security guard, who immediately denounced the non-Muslim in me: I tried to enter through the entrance to the mosque for women.
Having failed, they returned to the soldiers and went to the Wailing Wall. At the entrance to the tunnel we searched and found in my backpack pocket knife.